Burning hot day and we divide into 2 groups for walking to Fish Hole, a billabong in a sacred Euro dreaming site. One group takes the 5 hour walk over the ridge, the other the easier 2 hour amble.

We pass a red rock fortress of euros, who seem to be able to jump along effortlessly perpendicular rock faces, watching us clamber over the stony river bed.

Before we can jump in the waterhole, we have been told by Latzy that we must throw a stone in the water to introduce ourselves and ask permission of the Rainbow Serpent to inhabit his space for a while. The answer must have been okay as by the time I reach the group, there are splashing swimming bodies. The billabong is icy cold, my body feels as though it is swimming through fire, the experience is so intense.

This is a men's dreaming site, and some of the boys are naked on the rocks and in the water, and they're looking pretty damm happy. It's the first water in the bush we've experienced in two weeks, and it's a bit like meeting an old friend who'd dropped from your memory. Three hours pass too quickly, it's that strange time effect again, so elastic here in the desert, marked only by the clanking of a triangle to announce meals or body weather training sessions.

The journey back is confusing, I look out for the rock fortress but don't see it, all the plants and rocks seem different, and we meet a friendly ogre camped by the entrance to the Dreaming. We leave Mikey with him, and some hours later Agnese and me are wondering if that was a good idea, because maybe the ogre was hungry and Mikey looks like he'd make a tasty snack.